Mera Peak Climbing

Overview

Mera Peak: A Magnificent Journey into the Heart of the Himalayas

Mera Peak, standing tall at 6,654 meters, is the highest permitted trekking peak in Nepal and offers one of the most amazing climbing experiences in the world. Located south of Mount Everest, this majestic peak dominates the watershed between the lush, forested valleys of the Hinku and Hongu Drangkas. Untouched by mass tourism, Mera Peak is a hidden gem for hikers and climbers looking for a peaceful and undisturbed adventure. It offers an amazing trip into the heart of the Himalayas.

 

 Why Mera Peak Climbing?

J.O.M. Roberts and Sen Tenzing made the first successful ascent of Mera Peak on May 20, 1953. The route they set up remains the standard route to the summit today. Although there are alternative routes to reach the summit, none of them are simple; some call for navigating difficult and slippery passes, thereby enhancing the authentic mountaineering experience. The time and dedication are fully compensated with breathtaking panoramic views that make Mera Peak one of the finest viewpoints in Nepal.

This trek offers a unique chance to travel to an unspoiled and barely explored area of Nepal. The trip passes through the remote and pristine valleys of Hinku and Hongu, where tall peaks, glacial lakes, and deep forests blend to create an almost surreal landscape. The hillsides are densely forested with Rhododendron, oak, silver fir, and birch, and the area remains largely uninhabited, adding to its untouched charm.

The Upper Hongu Basin is a true mountain wilderness, characterized by massive mountains, glacial lakes and stunning peaks like Chamlang and Baruntse. In the monsoon season, Sherpas from the south graze animals in the Kharkas, which are located in the Upper Hinku Basin. This remoteness enhances the sense of adventure and requires climbers to be self-sufficient, making it a perfect destination for those seeking isolation and tranquillity.

The climb itself is a test of endurance and determination, but it’s also an opportunity to connect with nature on a deeper level. You’ll feel an overwhelming feeling of accomplishment and wonder as you trek through pristine forests, cross glacial moraines, and navigate crevasse fields. And when you finally stand atop the summit, the panoramic views of the Himalayas will leave you speechless.

The Journey Begins: Lukla to Base Camp

The journey begins with a thrilling flight into the small city of Lukla, which is situated at 2,800 meters (9,184 feet) above sea level. Lukla, the gateway to the Everest region, is well-known for its spectacular runway and sets the mood for the trip. The journey to Mera Peak from here takes roughly six days, with numerous acclimatization pauses to keep you healthy during the climb up. The path continues through some of Nepal’s most unspoiled environments, which include thick forests of birch, oak, silver fir, and rhododendron. You’ll see traditional Sherpa communities and stunning alpine lakes throughout the path, as well as offering an insight into the local way of life and culture. Particularly the upper Hongu Basin, with its massive mountains, glacial lakes, and breathtaking peaks like Chamlang and Baruntse, represents a true mountain wilderness. You will develop a solid base as you get closer to the base camp of the Mera Glacier. This is where the real adventure begins.

The Climb: High Camps and the Summit Push

From base camp, the climb to Mera Peak involves setting up two high camps. The first is situated on the Mera Glacier more than 300 meters above base camp, while the second is created at 5,800 meters after crossing the Mera crevasse field. The final climb to the summit is steady but rough, requiring focus, determination, and a good level of fitness.

But it’s worth the effort. It feels like you are on top of the world when you are standing atop Mera Peak. The summit offers a 360-degree panorama of some of the highest peaks on Earth, including Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Kangchenjunga. To the east, climbers may gaze at the peaks of Chamlang, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, and Baruntse. To the west, the views of Cho-Oyu, Ama Dablam, and Kangtega are equally mesmerizing. To the north, the majestic Everest stands over the unclimbed south face of Lhotse and the Nuptse/Lhotse ridge. On a clear day, it is possible to climb the peak and descend back to base camp within the same day, making it a rewarding yet challenging adventure.

 

Highlights of Mera Peak

  • Nepal’s highest trekking peak (6,654 meters).
  • Panoramic views of five 8,000-meter peaks, including Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu.
  • Unspoiled forests of Rhododendron, oak, silver fir, and birch.
  • Remote and preserved nature in the Hinku and Hongu valleys.
  • Cultural experience within the Traditional Sherpa villages.
  • Glacier scenery and climbing at high elevations.
  • Accessible yet challenging climb, suitable for enthusiastic trekkers and climbers.
  • Historical significance as the first ascent was made in 1953.
  • Experience true mountaineering, including with glacier bridges as well as high peaks.

Here is a table with key details for climbing Mera Peak:

Aspect Details
Location Sagarmatha National Park, Khumbu Region, Nepal
Elevation 6,476 meters (21,246 feet)
Trekking Duration 17-19 days (including acclimatization)
Difficulty Level Moderate to Challenging
Best Season Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to November)
Climbing Grade PD (Peu Difficile / Moderate Difficulty)
Summit Views Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, and other Himalayan peaks
Start Point Lukla (via flight from Kathmandu)
Accommodation Teahouses for trekking and camping for high-altitude sections
Climbing Permit Mera Peak climbing permit required
Prerequisites Good physical fitness, basic mountaineering skills, previous trekking experience
Highlights Scenic trek through forests, Sherpa villages, and the stunning views from the summit
Technical Skills Ice axe, crampon, and rope usage skills required for summit push
Cost Around $3,000 – $5,000 (varies by operator and services)

 

Join Us for the Adventure of a Lifetime

Mera Peak offers an immersive experience into one of Nepal’s most remote and stunning areas, making it more than just a climb. From the thrill of the climbing to the unparalleled views from the summit, every moment on Mera Peak is a testament to the raw beauty and majesty of the Himalayas. Whether you’re an experienced climber or an enthusiast hiker, Mera Peak provides an experience that is both demanding and fulfilling. So, pack your bags, lace up your boots, and get ready for the adventure of a lifetime. Mera Peak is waiting, and the mountains are calling.

 

 

Short Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival at Kathmandu
Day 02: Stay in Kathmandu for the official procedure
Day 03: Fly to Lukla
Day 04: Trek to Chuthanga
Day 05: Trek to Chetarbu Kharka
Day 06: Trek to Kothe, forest Camp
Day 07: Trek to Thangnak
Day 08: Acclimatization at Thangnak
Day 09: Trek to Khahare
Day 10: Rest at Khahare
Day 11: Trek to Mera high camp
Day 12: Summit to Mera Peak
Day 13: Extra summit day
Day 14: Trek back to Thnagnak
Day 15: Trek to Tashing Dingma
Day 16: Trek to Chetava Kharka
Day 17: Trek to Chuthangma
Day 18: Trek to Lukla
Day 19: Fly back to Kathmandu
Day 20: Rest day at Kathmandu
Day 21: Departure on your destination

Detail Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu (1,400m)

  • Once in Kathmandu, make your way to your accommodation.
  • Meet the trekking and climbing guide for a briefing about the climb.
  • Make all necessary preparations and evaluate your climbing equipment.
  • Stay in Kathmandu for the night.

Day 2: Take a 4- to 5-hour flight to Lukla (2,800m) and hike to Paiya (2,730m).

  • Early dawn flight to Lukla for a stunning view.
  • Start your journey by passing tiny suspension bridges and rhododendron forests.
  • Descend towards Surke, then climb towards the forested settlement of Paiya.
  • Spend the night at Paiya.

Day 3: Trek to Panggom (2,846m) – 5-6 hours

  • Head up towards the settlement of Panggom after crossing the Paiya Khola (river).
  • Explore bamboo and rhododendron forests while coming across stunning waterfalls.
  • Spend the night at Panggom.

Day 4: Spend four to five hours trekking to Ningsow (2,863m).

  • Go over the 3,173-meter-high Panggom La Pass and head down toward the Hinku Valley.
  • Explore unspoiled landscapes and isolated Sherpa communities.
  • Spend the night at Ningsow.

Day 5: Spend 7-8 hours trekking to Chhatra Khola (2,800m).

  • Let us introduce you to the biodiversity-rich protected region known as Makalu Barun National Park.
  • Along the Hinku River, take the Pasang Lhamu Trail.
  • Potential encounters with endangered species, such as Himalayan tahr and red pandas.
  • Spend the night in Chhatra Khola.

Day 6: Spend 6-7 hours trekking to Kothe (3,691m).

  • The trail enters the isolated Hinku Valley upstream along the river.
  • Explore thick rhododendron woodlands with sporadic views of Mera Peak.
  • Spend the night at Kothe, a tiny community beside the Hinku River.

Day 7: Trek to Thaknak (4,358m) – 3-4 hours

  • Ascend towards the high-altitude pastures of Thaknak, used by yak herders.
  • Visit a small monastery and enjoy the panoramic views of the surrounding peaks.
  • Spend the night  in Thaknak.

Day 8: Trek to Khare (5,045m) – 3-4 hours

  • A relatively short but steep climb towards Khare, the base camp area for Mera Peak.
  • The views of Mera Peak and surrounding glaciers become more prominent.
  • Spend the afternoon resting and checking climbing equipment.
  • Spend the night in Khare.

Day 9: Acclimatization & Pre-Climbing Training in Khare

  • Rest day to adjust to the high altitude and avoid altitude sickness.
  • Optional hike to a nearby ridge for better acclimatization.
  • Climbing gear training with crampons, ice axes, harnesses, and rope techniques.
  • Spend the night  in Khare.

Day 10: Trek to Mera High Camp (5,800m) – 5-6 hours

  • Climb up the Mera Glacier and cross crevasses.
  • Set up a high camp at 5,800m with breathtaking views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu.
  • Prepare for the summit push the next day.
  • Spend in high camp.

Day 11: Summit Mera Peak (6,654m) & Descend to Khare – 8-9 hours

  • Start the climb early, around 2-3 AM, using headlamps.
  • Steady ascent on a snow slope, requiring endurance and proper pacing.
  • Reach the summit at sunrise and enjoy a 360-degree panoramic view of the Himalayas.
  • Descend back to high camp for a short break, then continue down to Khare.
  • Overnight in Khare.

Day 12: Contingency Day (In Case of Bad Weather)

  • Reserved in case of delays due to weather or acclimatization issues.
  • If unused, trekkers can descend further or take a rest day.

Day 13: Trek to Kothe (3,691m) – 5-6 hours

  • Descend through the same route, enjoying a much easier trek downhill.
  • Overnight in Kothe.

Day 14: Trek to Thuli Kharka (4,300m) – 5-6 hours

  • A scenic trail through yak pastures and rhododendron forests.
  • Enjoy the last glimpses of Mera Peak from a distance.
  • Overnight in Thuli Kharka.

Day 15: Trek to Lukla via Zatrwa La Pass (4,600m) – 6-7 hours

  • Cross the Zatrwa La Pass, offering one last stunning view of the Himalayas.
  • Descend steeply towards Lukla, marking the end of the trekking portion.
  • Celebrate the successful expedition with the team.
  • Overnight in Lukla.

Day 16: Fly to Kathmandu

  • Early morning flight back to Kathmandu.
  • Transfer to the hotel and enjoy a free day for sightseeing, shopping for souvenirs ,or relaxation.
  • Farewell dinner in Kathmandu.
  • Overnight in Kathmandu.

Day 17: Free Day in Kathmandu (Buffer Day for Flight Delays)

  • Explore cultural sites like Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple),Pashupatinath Temple, and Durbar Square.
  • Optional spa/massage to relax after the trek.
  • Overnight in Kathmandu.

Day 18: Departure from Kathmandu

  • Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for your flight home."Safe flight! We’ll be here whenever you’re ready for your next adventure"

 

                              "Safe flight! We’ll be here whenever you’re ready for your next adventure"

Exclude/Include

Cost Includes

All domestic flight, hotel/airport transfer
Hotel in Kathmandu
Rock climbing or sightseeing course in Kathmandu, if required
All ground transportation by private vehicles
All accommodations in / tent / camp/ lodge/guesthouse and all meals during the trekking and climbing
Down jacket, 4 seasonal sleeping bag & group mountaineering gears
Welcome on first day & farewell dinner on last day
All porterages costs
All cost for a Leader and sherpa, a sherpa assistance leader(s) and assistance Trek leader help each individuals while on trek
All necessary paper works and permits
Travel & Rescue arrangements
Exclusive Medical Kit Bag
All government and local taxes if necessary

Cost Excludes

Visa fees/ International airfare to & from home city
Excess baggage charges
Lunch & evening meals in Kathmandu
Personal mountaineering gears for the climbingTravel and rescue insurance
Personal expenses e.g. phone calls, laundry, bar bills & extra porters
Tips for guides and porters

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I did my share of trekking through many countries and was very excited about doing a trek in Nepal. Since this should be THE country for such things, I had really high hopes. Many friends reccomended Annapurna to me, but because they all did it, I didn't want to do

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